Irregular wave propagation at Torres-Mostardas beach, Brazil

Abstract

The parabolic mild-slope model Refdif_S simulates the propagation and deformation of irregular waves in coastal regions with variable water depth. PY_Refdif_S software tool is an extension of the model, using a multi-grid approach in order to achieve a more efficient and applicable model to large areas and a large set of different wave conditions. The tool is made up of several Python routines that automatically build multiple grids, prepare data files and execute Refdif_S for several sea states. The model was applied to the study of irregular wave propagation from offshore to nearshore in the region of Torres-Mostardas, Brazil. For a range of irregular incident sea states, several calculations with the tool were performed. The wave field and local sea states were characterised in that area. Based on this application, advantages and limitations of the tool are analysed.